Specialist Artisan crafts include:
Beginning with a paper pattern of the garment - perhaps a larger part such as the back, front or sleeve, or maybe a smaller section like a cuff or collar – the embroidery design is sketched by hand onto paper which is then traced onto the fabric of the garment by manually drilling small holes.
The fabric is then tightly stretched onto a wooden frame and the artisan starts the intricate embroidery process. A long needle with a hook is plied from the top but fed by thread from below. This movement creates loops, and repeats of these lead to a line of chain stitches. The resulting fabric can also be embellished with sequins and beads - which are kept on the right side, with the needle placed inside each of their holes before dipping to the underside of the garment, thus securing them to the fabric.
You can see the Aari technique employed beautifully on our Maya mosaic embroidered top.
In certain styles, hand beading has been employed to ensure the highest quality of embroidery by artisans who specialise in the use of a needle and a thread. These artisans do not use any tracing and embroider directly onto the fabric. Utilising the creative brief outlined by the designer, each stitch of thread and each bead or sequence is manually fastened onto the fabric.
Computer controlled embroidery:
As time and techniques have moved into the 21st century, many fashion labels are now harnessing the speed and accuracy that technology can lend to embroidery techniques.
Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled and specifically engineered for embroidery. The embroidery machines and combination sewing-embroidery machines use a framing system that holds the fabric taut under the sewing needle and moves it to create a design from a pre-programmed digital embroidery pattern.
SIYONA has created our own custom made fabric for particular styles involving complex designs. This enables precision and control in maintaining exact position of the needle and fabric at every point in creating a particle design, resulting in a garment of unparalleled perfection.